What a brilliant article about three remarkable women, Claire. Thank you s-o-o-o much for holding history's mirror up to these three pioneers of sticking to the facts that archaeology reveals. Schleimann and Evans were diverted from excavated reality by the fame of self-mything a fictionalised Minoa. They had the help of inherited affluence and credulous reporters. Harriet Boyd Hawes, Edith Hall, and Blanche Wheeler would have none of it. They pushed through the barriers of sexism to present archeology as fact, not fantasy. And thank you, too, for so many pictures of the stone walls and hillocky lanes of Gournia under the brilliant sun. Your article painted such a vivid picture I could smell the herbs and bask in the afternoon sun. More please!
Loved your article and stories on chance encounter and what they can lead to. I too have enjoyed visiting Gournia.
At the Porto Kanaki restaurant in Pachia Ammos, Nikos the owner's son, met and fell in love with a Canadian archeologist there. They have 2 lovely children now and both wait on us every time we come to eat there. Have you visited Faneromeni Monastery not far from there? That has quite a story too. Much appreciate these articles you so well write!!!
Thank you! I have tried to go to Faneromeni twice, bur there has been repair work going on for some time, so both times closed! Still hope to go soon! The road is interesting though, no?
Yes, they are constructing quarters for piulgrims but the raod, last time I checked was good. I have been gone 4 months though. The monk and someone else were showing us around in November. Check it out again...
A really lovely spot to wander & sometimes, just sit & take it all in. We may go tomorrow-it’s lovely weather here for wandering. I can’t help thinking how difficult it must have been for Harriet, working in long skirts & in tremendous heat. It’s March & we’re in shorts, lucky us!
This article really resonates with us on so many levels. Firstly, I feel the American lady's pain! We were almost caught out ourselves in Prina. We missed the "bypass". Also, I can picture exactly where in Kritsa your lady got stuck.
Every time we come to Crete, and work our way to Mochlos or Sitea, my husband has said, "We really need to visit Gournia", and I usually kind of brush him off. Controversially, I wasn't taken with Knossos - (shh!). However, after reading this we've decided we'll definitely visit next time. It's amazing that we always find new things to do and places to explore.
Our first visit to Gournia was in 1970. We met the guard, Marcos, who watched over Gournia for decades and became a family friend. On subsequent visits over the years he would warmly greet us and we would drink raki together in his small stone guard house overlooking the ruins. Gournia, besides being a remarkable important archaeological site, was also the only place in all of Crete where wild YELLOW anemones grew. I often wondered if that is still the case today. Look up Alice Kober.... another brilliant pioneer of linguistics whose remarkable accomplishments in deciphering Linear B was overlooked because of her gender.
Thanks, David, I will look her up! There were no yellow anemones when I visited on 'free Sunday' recently, but there were white ones alongside the yellow and purple - noticeably fewer. Will keep my eyes out for yellow ones in the future. Marcos sounds wicked! - and Raki is a great leveller everywhere - in more ways than one!
There is a lovely book written by her daughter called Born to Rebel: The Life of Harriet Boyd Hawes. Her work as an archaeologist was only a small part of her remarkable life.
Yes - Sounds great. I've been looking for that, but it seems quite hard to get hold of.... I'll keep looking, or see if there's a way of being able to read it online via an archive facility!
What an amazing story Claire, highlighting how strong women in history have always had to work so hard to triumph against prejudice. But despite the amazing work of these women, they are not given the public credit, even now. Well the unfortunate circumstances of your meeting with the weeping American lady, has now opened some more eyes to their discovery of Gournia. For that we can all be grateful. Looks like a beautiful place. Your photographs, as always, bring it alive. Thank you x
There is a little more to Gournia that you may not know, Claire. The Minoan fanatics always tell the story that Minoan Crete needed no defences as they were so 'peaceful'. However much more recent excavations at Gournia, (in the last ten years,) have actually found that walls were built around Gournia, especially on the sea side.
Thanks, Ray. I know the cities of Olous and Lato had regular disputes, so I'm sure Gournia had its share too. It's so close to the sea that it also makes sense to have defences against invaders who arrive by water. Most of the artefacts I've seen from Gournia (so far) are decorative - figurines, ceramics etc - I was at the British Museum last week, and there are quite a few perfect pieces from Gournia and the Pachia Ammos area in their current Minoan display
What a brilliant article about three remarkable women, Claire. Thank you s-o-o-o much for holding history's mirror up to these three pioneers of sticking to the facts that archaeology reveals. Schleimann and Evans were diverted from excavated reality by the fame of self-mything a fictionalised Minoa. They had the help of inherited affluence and credulous reporters. Harriet Boyd Hawes, Edith Hall, and Blanche Wheeler would have none of it. They pushed through the barriers of sexism to present archeology as fact, not fantasy. And thank you, too, for so many pictures of the stone walls and hillocky lanes of Gournia under the brilliant sun. Your article painted such a vivid picture I could smell the herbs and bask in the afternoon sun. More please!
Thank you Douglas. So glad you enjoyed it!
What a fabulous story. I'm delighted you have unearthed another unsung heroine.
Thanks Elysoun. I think I would have liked Harriet!!!
Loved your article and stories on chance encounter and what they can lead to. I too have enjoyed visiting Gournia.
At the Porto Kanaki restaurant in Pachia Ammos, Nikos the owner's son, met and fell in love with a Canadian archeologist there. They have 2 lovely children now and both wait on us every time we come to eat there. Have you visited Faneromeni Monastery not far from there? That has quite a story too. Much appreciate these articles you so well write!!!
Thank you! I have tried to go to Faneromeni twice, bur there has been repair work going on for some time, so both times closed! Still hope to go soon! The road is interesting though, no?
Yes, they are constructing quarters for piulgrims but the raod, last time I checked was good. I have been gone 4 months though. The monk and someone else were showing us around in November. Check it out again...
I will, thanks!
I love this. Just as with archaeology you accidentally find someone and then dig and sift and piece together serendipitous findings.
I love that idea! Yes. Exactly that!
Wish I had known about this last year when I was in Elounda! Never mind, another excuse to re-visit that area again!
If you needed an excuse, I'm happy to have provided one!
A really lovely spot to wander & sometimes, just sit & take it all in. We may go tomorrow-it’s lovely weather here for wandering. I can’t help thinking how difficult it must have been for Harriet, working in long skirts & in tremendous heat. It’s March & we’re in shorts, lucky us!
Thanks for telling us about her. What a woman.
It's a great place to sit and listen to the world hum!!
Wow... $55 off of Abe's Books. ( $250 off Amazon) I had no idea it was so rare.
Yes - I'm hoping it's been digitised in a library!!!
This article really resonates with us on so many levels. Firstly, I feel the American lady's pain! We were almost caught out ourselves in Prina. We missed the "bypass". Also, I can picture exactly where in Kritsa your lady got stuck.
Every time we come to Crete, and work our way to Mochlos or Sitea, my husband has said, "We really need to visit Gournia", and I usually kind of brush him off. Controversially, I wasn't taken with Knossos - (shh!). However, after reading this we've decided we'll definitely visit next time. It's amazing that we always find new things to do and places to explore.
Glad to have given you the excuse if you needed one! It was beautiful in February with all the flowers!
Our first visit to Gournia was in 1970. We met the guard, Marcos, who watched over Gournia for decades and became a family friend. On subsequent visits over the years he would warmly greet us and we would drink raki together in his small stone guard house overlooking the ruins. Gournia, besides being a remarkable important archaeological site, was also the only place in all of Crete where wild YELLOW anemones grew. I often wondered if that is still the case today. Look up Alice Kober.... another brilliant pioneer of linguistics whose remarkable accomplishments in deciphering Linear B was overlooked because of her gender.
Thanks, David, I will look her up! There were no yellow anemones when I visited on 'free Sunday' recently, but there were white ones alongside the yellow and purple - noticeably fewer. Will keep my eyes out for yellow ones in the future. Marcos sounds wicked! - and Raki is a great leveller everywhere - in more ways than one!
There is a lovely book written by her daughter called Born to Rebel: The Life of Harriet Boyd Hawes. Her work as an archaeologist was only a small part of her remarkable life.
Yes - Sounds great. I've been looking for that, but it seems quite hard to get hold of.... I'll keep looking, or see if there's a way of being able to read it online via an archive facility!
Loved this post! However, now that you know these three women, you must bring their names back to the forefront!!! This post should be a beginning…
Yes - thinking about that, as I now have a fourth woman to add to this little band too! More soon!
What an amazing story Claire, highlighting how strong women in history have always had to work so hard to triumph against prejudice. But despite the amazing work of these women, they are not given the public credit, even now. Well the unfortunate circumstances of your meeting with the weeping American lady, has now opened some more eyes to their discovery of Gournia. For that we can all be grateful. Looks like a beautiful place. Your photographs, as always, bring it alive. Thank you x
Thanks, Annette. Strange how you start getting interested in a place and hear a name, and then suddenly it starts to crop up everywhere!
I know! On a discussion on the radio on a program you just happened upon!!
Completely by accident - and almost at the end of the programme! It was meant to be!
There is a little more to Gournia that you may not know, Claire. The Minoan fanatics always tell the story that Minoan Crete needed no defences as they were so 'peaceful'. However much more recent excavations at Gournia, (in the last ten years,) have actually found that walls were built around Gournia, especially on the sea side.
Thanks, Ray. I know the cities of Olous and Lato had regular disputes, so I'm sure Gournia had its share too. It's so close to the sea that it also makes sense to have defences against invaders who arrive by water. Most of the artefacts I've seen from Gournia (so far) are decorative - figurines, ceramics etc - I was at the British Museum last week, and there are quite a few perfect pieces from Gournia and the Pachia Ammos area in their current Minoan display